Sometimes you smell something and your brain refuses to provide the notes for what you are smelling. That is what happened to me with Neela Vermeire Creations (brought to life by Bertrand Duchafour).
Trayee is one of those perfumes that each time you apply it, it smells a bit differently. A shape-shifter of the most interesting order which displays its shape-shifting nature mostly on skin.
Usually it starts for me with a sweetish, strangely earthy, cardamomy smell, soon to be enveloped in spices. Several times I thought it had a really natural start to it (as similar to what I'm used to with natural perfumers).
Sometimes, it smells like the resins from an evergreen tree are mixed with meadow flowers, but those flowers barely peek through the spices mixed with cardamom.
Last time though, the cardamom got in line by the blackcurrant dancing on the fumes of sandalwood, cedre and vetiver. It had that lovely dark fruitiness that blackcurrant can provide.
Eventually, the fruitiness dissipates and the smoothness of the base notes comes to the fore, interspersed with vetiver and other relatively raspy notes so the smoothness wouldn't be boring (I'd be lying if I said I could smell exactly which).
Sometimes the smoothness takes on a leathery tinge.
On paper though, the fruitiness completely bypassed me and instead smelled more like a combination of cardamom and cedre, lightly cinnamony and lightly sweet, but spicey (clove and saffron do their thing). Also, it was only on paper that I caught whiffs of ambery background.
But then again, who knows, maybe next time I wear it, amber and oud come out to play as well... :)
Notes: Blue Ginger from Madagascar, Elemi Oil, Cinnamon Bark, Ganja Effects, Blackcurrant Absolute, Basil, Sambac Jasmine Absolute, Egyptian Jasmine Absolute, Cardamom Absolute, Clove, Saffron, Sandalwood, Javanese Vetiver, Haitian Vetiver, Incense, Mysore Sandalwood Oil, Patchouli, Myrhh, Vanilla, Cedar, Amber Note, Oudh Palao from Laos and Oak Moss
Samples of all 3 were provided by Neela Vermeire.
Notes and pics taken from: http://www.neelavermeire.com/
Ines, wow, you have me very intrigued by this one. I thought your descriptions were great, and I really love shapeshifter fragrances. Plus, if I understood correctly, through most of the shapeshifting you got a prominent cardamom note, and that's one of my very favorite notes in perfume.
ReplyDeleteSalute, ye Poet! Totally Gorgeous review, Ines ~ when a scent takes you away, you come back with such lyrical prose and dance our imaginations away! Of course, I must-must try this intriguing elixer now :)
ReplyDeleteAnd, this is the 'watch week' ~ your packages should arrive!
Cheerz,
Zanne :)
Ines, this sounds wonderful. Yes, here's another vote for shapeshifters:-)especially in woody spice form. Can't wait to try it. Was it your favourite of the three, or are you saving the best for last?
ReplyDeleteI worry about the cedar though, some cedar notes turn horribly rancid on my skin, I hope not this one, as it does seems to tick all the boxes otherwise. Thanks for the beautiful review, lemming this <3
I look forward to trying this, spicy twists and turns and all. In fact I had a quick sniff of the nozzle of Nick's bottle the other week, and that very fleeting impression was favourable. I agree with Asali that cedar can go all wrong on me too, but remain hopeful for now!
ReplyDeleteIt's so interesting: our different perception of sweetness is in play for this perfume.
ReplyDeleteOn my skin (for my nose?) Trayee always starts dry, even bitter and only later in its development some sweetness/fruitiness comes out.
Trayee is my second favorite in the line.
Trayee is amazing, but I expected to like it, whereas the other two really surprised me. Will you write about them too?
ReplyDeleteI loved your review of Trayee, thank you!
Suzanne, I'm glad it sounds intriguing (it really is). :)
ReplyDeleteI think it's brave that cardamom is so prominent (not too much though) because not many people appreciate it. And you got it right, I can always smell it and I certainly enjoy it here.
Thanks Zanne! :)
ReplyDeleteBoth for the lovely comment and the package (it might arrive as a birthday gift even)!
Asali, I'm not saving the best for last. I don't have a clear favorite I'm afraid, Trayee and Bombay Bling are both great with Mohur coming close second only because it's not the type of perfume I wear (it's too nice and proper for me). :)
ReplyDeleteReview coming soon.
And I don't think you should worry about cedar here, it's not even remotely strong, others are strong enough to keep it checked.
Vanessa, like I said to Asali, I don't think cedar should be worrying you. :)
ReplyDeleteAlthough honestly, I think this one might smell differently on people, it seems to me that kind of a perfume. Different in nuances though, not completely different. :)
Undina, I have to go and read your review, I skipped on everyone's in order not to get influenced by other people's opinion.
ReplyDeleteAs to sweetness, I believe my skin has a tendency to play it up a bit. :)
Thank you Olfactoria.
ReplyDeleteActually, I had the opposite view - I thought Trayee wasn't going to move me much (per notes) and BB was bound to be a favorite just by having the mango note. :)
So, I fell instantly for BB, and Trayee sort of slipped under my skin while I wasn't watching. :)
Reviews of all coming up soon.
I am back to report after one full wearing of Trayee!
ReplyDeleteWas not too hopeful initially as the opening was what I can best describe as "raucous spice" - a jumble of everything in my spice cupboard (if I had one) in no particular order, or so it seemed. Not really wearable like a perfume in its initial stages. But the drydown saw a mellowing and thinning out of the various spicy notes and was completely mesmerising. My favourite part of all three so far, though I should give them another spin to be sure, with them being shapeshifters and all!
lol, raucous spice? Loved that Vanessa. :) It is rather strongly spicy, but I love that.
ReplyDeleteI think you should give them more time, I wonder if more facets will come out... :)
I have been trying to wrap my head around these, too, Ines. I loved reading your reviews, and am excited to hear what you think about the third in the trio.
ReplyDeleteI keep going back and forth on my favorite of these but still can't decide, so I ordered the Discovery set to play with them a while longer before I decide which will be my first bottle of the three, since I'm anticipating I will want them all at some point.
ReplyDeleteNatalie, I look forward to reading your throughts on them.
ReplyDeleteI hope BB post will be soon. :)
HI Sujaan, I can't decide on a favourite neither but I'm kind of leaning toward Bombay Bling being the favourite. :)
ReplyDeleteBut I wouldn't mind a bottle of this either... ;)