Mona di Orio - RIP

It's been a whole day and I'm still having a hard time believing the fact that the beautiful and talented Mona di Orio will never again present us all perfume aficionados with another wonderfully brilliant creation.

After finally "getting" her first collection, this year's Les Nombres d'Or made me realize that Mona was on top of the list of the perfumers I loved the most for the creations they brought forth.

Everybody is saying it, and I can only repeat it as it's on my mind as well - she will be remembered through her perfumes we wear and are going to wear into the future.


Lovely Mona, rest in peace.

Smitten by vetiver - Mona di Orio Vetyver

Basically, you all need to smell it and then go buy a bottle (or a decant, the bottle is quite expensive and I'm not one bit grateful to MdO for making me want to buy it). But boy, it surely smells great.

This is by far my favourite vetiver. I am completely smitten by it. I keep testing it in order to get better

ideas of how to describe it but nothing worthy comes to mind. I am simply in love. :)

Notes: Bourbon vetiver, blue ginger from Madagascar, Virginia cedar, violet, cistus labdanum, clary sage absolute, tonka bean, musk.

I don't think any of my readers have any doubt now that I am a huge Mona di Orio fan.  I love her creations but some, I love more than the others. Those are also the most difficult to describe. I spray my little vial of Vetyver and I think I'm going to concentrate now, and describe what I smell, only to be disarmed and seduced by it and then I come up with only rudimentary notes. But nevertheless, here they are. :)

It's a sunny, dry, hay-like vetiver but the hay is interspersed with flowers and therefore smells a bit sweeter than hay usually does. But at the same time, the vetiver is giving it a  masculine vibe underscored by cedar. I think the ginger again is more in line with the sweet and feminine side of this vetiver.  The fact that it is all there makes this a perfect unisex perfume for me. Not that I ever take those labels into account.
It's a warm, snuggly vetiver, one you smell and then do everything to come closer and keep smelling it. I never thought I would say this about vetiver, but this one seduces you by making you weak at the knees.
I keep sighing deeply trying to describe it. :)

Eventually, it does veer into a more masculine vetiver, losing some of that initial floweriness (which  I have no idea why I keep referring to as such, as notes don't really list any except violet).

This is not a refreshing vetiver, it is a vetiver in line with the summer. It does nothing to cool you but instead makes you feel warmed by the sun somewhere in the flowery summer fields.

The heat has hit - my cooling choices

We've been having a real heat wave the last few days (ok, today is an exception but it won't last).

So, I wanted to share the perfume that work for me when it's so hot outside I need a perfume to cool me off.

My latest cooling discovery is Jardin du Poete by Eau d'Italie and I decided not to fight it anymore. :) It should arrive at Flores by the end of the month so I'll be giving one bottle a loving home.  and if the heat persists quite a lot of sprays.

There's already been much talk of Guerlain's  Vetiver (the masculine one). My boyfriend hates it, but I love it.
Here is a review from Perfume Shrine where both masculine and feminine versions are discussed.

One of the things I keep forgetting I have and forgetting I like amid everything else is Eau de Cartier. It's a little sparkling gem that refreshes like the gin and tonic many compare it to.

Aqua Allegoria Pamplelune - Well, I have only a little bit left of this wonderful grapefruit scent and I really need a bottle of it but it doesn't seem to be available here (or maybe I'm not looking right).
This seems to be a hit and miss as grapefruit is such a note.

Charmes et Feuilles by The Different Company has become a staple for me from spring all through summer. What better to cool you off but some mint?

And the last one, Mona di Orio Lux, the one that feels best in the languid heat of the evening as it doesn't put a freshness into your step but instead make you enjoy yourself languidly in the evening.

Please, if you have some ideas of your own, I can always use more diversity and coolness in my perfume collection. :)


Pic is mine and that would work great in the way of cooling as well. :)

Les Nombres d'Or: Tubereuse and Amber

It takes some time to get to know perfumes by Mona di Orio and even then, you cannot say for sure they aren't going to surprise you sometime in the near future.
I've been happily testing the Nombres d'Or line and I love them all. Some more, some just a little bit less, but if I had them all, I would happily wear them. As I don't see that happening any time in the near (or even distant) future, I'll give my samples all my love. (btw, I ordered mine from Aus Liebe zum Duft and they might seem expensive but they are also big). :)


Tubereuse

Notes: pink pepper, bergamot from Calabria, green leaves, Indian tuberose absolute, Siamese benzoin, heliotrope, amber, coconut milk, musk

Honestly, I really shouldn't be reviewing any tuberose perfumes. So far, I haven't encountered a single one I didn't like. Tuberose is one note I cannot get enough of and I enjoy it immensely.
In this case, I'm happy to say, I found one that would work great in my collection, as it's a refreshing, green tuberose. In the beginning.
It's lightly sharp on the nose due to the pink pepper and citrus, and greenery is there too, hiding the tuberose  bathing in the coconut milk. At no point in development does tuberose take over and the greenery remains there, not perhaps as obvious as in the beginning but there to make this tuberose light for wearing and something tuberose haters might give a go.
Also, it made me realize how wonderfully (for me) tuberose works with coconut (this is not the first perfume where the pair is featured but perhaps the most obvious one). Which brought me to the idea that perhaps Love Coco and Vamp a NY might work well together...  Hmmm, I should give it a try...
(of course, if it doesn't work out great, I'll never mention it here and I'll just pretend I didn't try it) ;)


Ambre

Notes: Cedarwood from Atlas, Ylang-ylang from Comores, Benzoin, Tolu, Absolu Vanilla Madagascar

As much as I could tell the notes in Tubereuse, I can't really say the same for Ambre.
It smells like the epitome amber. Lightly sweet, lightly burned, vanillic, somewhat musky and for a little while powdery. Ok, so that last part might not sound like amber, but it works for me (and I'm not a fan of powderiness).
Of all my ideas as to what might work to provide powderiness, none of them appear in the notes.
Anyway, my boyfriend assures me I'm wrong, but I smell similarities between Ambre and the drydown of Shalimar (which is a very good thing in my opinion).
This amber has me baffled. Each time I smell it, I smell something different and it's all good. :)
It's just a great, lightly burned and woody amber. There would definitely be a place for it in my collection.

Like Birgit says, there is always a place for another amber.


Notes and pics by: http://www.luckyscent.com/

Lacking words - Mona di Orio: Chamarre and Nuit Noire

I'm not even sure I should be writing about these two as I don't feel I can describe them appropriately but then again, I would like to put my thoughts into words.

The two perfumes I want to talk about today evoke feelings of strangeness and therefore I feel I lack words when I want to describe them.

Chamarre

Notes: Lavender, clary sage, aldehyde, Turkish rose absolute, iris from Florence, violet, opoponax, cashmeran, ambergris

To me, it starts as a leathery scent with some vioelt in the mix. That was the  best I could come up with after several tries. :)

You get some floral hints and some soapiness (my guess the aldehydes) and it gets more leathery by the minute with some smokiness peaking through. The best word for me is still strange. I'm not sure if I like it or not, I can certainly say at this moment I find it strange but I'm still not sure this strangeness is going to be something I'll like or not.
With time, it gets more floraly sweet and the leather feel subsides, until the perfume reveals its happy side and leaves you wondering if what you smelled in the beginning was real or not. That also seems to be a recurring theme for me with Mona di Orio's perfumes.
In the end, I'm left with the most things I can identify, the drydown smells of rose, musk, amber, something green as well and I'm completely at ease. And then I can't help myself and I start all over to check if the beginning was really as strange as I remember it. And yes, it was. :)


Nuit Noire

Notes: orange flower, cardamom, ginger, orange guinee, Olibanum, cinnamon, tuberose, sandalwood, clove, cedarwood, Amber, leather, musk, tonka

Luckyscent describes it as dirty, dark and delicious and I can't help but wonder if we are smelling the same thing. I can agree with delicious part after a while but dark and dirty escape me. Which also makes me wonder if I'm way down on the dirty road...
I find the opening strange again. And when I say strange, I actually mean strange enough that I cannot say exactly what I'm smelling - a leathery variant of some white flower? I'm not really sure, there are some similiraties with Chamarre but only so far as I think I smell leather. And then, there are some almondy aspects to it, which could be wrong, but was the best I could come up with. After a while it gets more florally sweet but I still cannot tease out cinnamon. And I usually get cinnamon as I love it very much and have no problem smelling it.
But in these two perfumes, the notes are so well blended that I would be lying when I said I smell this and that. The best I can do is say that after the initial strangeness, I get some piquancy (which I'm guessing is cardamom) and then it takes the road toward more of the white flowers and starts getting lusher (in a tropical way) and that is pretty much it for me.

With both of these, I'm not really sure in the beginning where the road will take me, but boy, do I get a reward for being bold and patient!

Notes and pic by: http://www.luckyscent.com/

Mona di Orio: Lux

I'm not writing down any comments regarding the name of this perfume. :)  Or whether the name is appropriate.
It does sound nice though.

What does it smell like?

Many things actually. It starts with a citrus burst, all lemony and sparkly, sometimes I seem to detect a slight waxy twist to it, most of the times I'm just preoccupied with the live lemon feel. Very cologne feeling.
And that's even before I detect barest whispers of bitter greens - I say barest because they are very light and besides the citrus doesn't back off that easily, it lasts for quite some time.
Today I got some peppery whiffs through the leaving lemons and dry woods. It's just, there are so many things happening, if your nose is not glued to your wrist, the chances are, you're going to miss some. It gets slightly smoky while the citrus is still waving which lead me to believe there was some patchouli in.
So, I wonder, how did I get from what I wrote up there to the beginnings of drydown which smelled lush and tropically warm with what I thought was ylang-ylang mixing in there? Yes, I got some sandalwood and cedar, especially late in the drydown, but ylang-ylang is not listed in the notes.

Notes: Sicilian lemon, Litsea Cubeba (whatever that is, I need to google it), petitgrain Bigarade South Africa, Haitian vetiver, Moroccan cedarwood, Mysore sandalwood, musk, amber, Siamese benzoin, bourbon vanilla, and cistus labdanum.

Basically, I love it. I love how it changes, I love its phases, I love the fact that each time I smell my wrist there is something slightly different happening there (even now, 8 hours after application), I love the fact it still manages to produce softness through all the aspects that might not be prone to that and I love the fact that it's available in Zagreb (ok, it used to be, I need to check if it still is).
I just don't love the fact that it's another Mona di Orio perfume I want and which is, well, not acquirable at the moment as if I decide to buy one, I will have to choose among many of her perfumes for the one I want the best.

Notes and pic by: http://www.luckyscent.com/

Mona di Orio: Carnation

UPDATE: Well, it seems I need to pay more attention to all the texts concerning fragrances I try as I managed to completely miss what the name of this one means. :) As it's not in English but in French (which also means I've been pronouncing it wrong - at least that was only in my mind).
Thanks to Carol for pointing it out, Carnation in French actually means complexion. So, my whole carnation introduction is completely beside the point. :)

Carnations are forever in my mind asssociated with having no smell and being THE flower of Communist/socialist regimes. That would probably be because for the first 10 years of my life, I grew in one. Which from my perspective then had absolutely no impact on my life in any matter, except that we all became little pioneers in our first grade and got a red carnation as well. So having held it for several of those type of occasions, I must say I don't remember it having any smell.
And for some reason I keep thinnking that whenever I see carnation appearing in a name of perfume, it is not going to smell good to me (lately I wonder where do I get these associations?). I wasn't able to find a reference to its smell, but that doesn't mean there isn't a carnation out there without one.

Anyway, you can probably tell from the introduction that I didn't think it wasn't good upon smelling Mona di Orio's Carnation. :) And I didn't. I was actually very much surprised.

It doesn't come often that if you don't smell a perfume straight away, you miss the opening. Lucky for me, I tried Carnation several times before this review so I got it from my second try. There is this initial sparkly burst of slightly citrusy aldehydes and if you're not there the second it happens, a bit later it's gone. And then the ride starts.
Smelling it without notes I kept thinking (again) how jasmine and orange blossoms were there in the beginning, and I don't know which part of the whole picture made me think old-fashioned but not in a bad way, but as in, you don't come across things like this any more. Some greenery peeks in through musky florals and there is a slight soapy-cream quality to it but lucky for me, the soapiness is here and then it's gone. It smells quite summery actually, I guess it's all the white flowers, green and citrus. But there also comes a time when a light leathery aspect appears, smelling rooty and chewy (not in a bubble gum way).

I hate the fact that I simply lack words for appropriately describing this.

There is just a vintage feel to the way this smells. And I guess a look at the notes can be revealing: bergamot, clove bark, Bourbon geranium, ylang-ylang, violet, jasmine, woods, msuk, amber, styrax.

It settles down into a lovely soft floral and you wonder if all those intriguing whispers along the way actually happened...?


Pic by: http://www.luckyscent.com/

Mona di Orio: Jabu and Amyitis

I still can't believe how quickly I dismissed Mona di Orio perfumes when I first tried them some year and a half ago. Although honestly, at that point, I don't think my nose was able to appreciate them.  I certainly notice changes in what I like in perfume and the fact that I smell more just makes me want to write about it less because it doesn't feel like I can give them the words they deserve. Which is stupid because writing about them actually helps me form more coherent thoughts on them and remeber them more vividly (those I write about).

Anyway, I'm taking my time this time around and I'm taking a leisurely walk through Mona di Orio samples. There and back again (I sound like I came from the Lord of the Rings). :)

First off, I have to say I smelled these without the notes and wrote down my thoughts. Then I went to check the notes and got completely discouraged by the list. 

Jabu

Notes: Brazilian orange flower, South African petitgrain, Manoi oil, Rose damascena, Comores ylang-ylang, Santal amyris, Siamese Benzoin, plum, myrrh

The name is totally apt (basically meaning happy). If there is one thing this perfume manages to convey, it's definitely happiness.
For me it starts sweet and neroli/jasmine-like smelling. As you can see, I'm close. :) It's like you took L'Artisan's Vanilia and put some white flowers over it. Absolutely wonderful and slightly intoxicating in a way that makes you feel happy and smiling. I kept thinking that the sweet vanilla aspects smelled like they were mixed with some coconut, but then I saw manoi oil and benzoin, and there was my answer.
I don't really think you can describe this in words well enough to transfer the warm scent wafting from my wrist. It's warm flowers, warmed by the sun, amid coconut trees. God, I really need a bottle of this. It's instant smile on your face with a bit more serious drydown. It gets you from feeling happy and smiling, into more mature happiness, where you know you are not always going to feel like this but that's fine, otherwise you wouldn't be able to appreaciate the real deal when it happened.


Amyitis

Notes:caraway, savory, capsicum, green leaves, iris, violet, gaiac wood, cedar of Virginia, saffron, opoponax, moss, amber

That caraway thing keeps cropping up and I still have no idea what it smells like. Well, actually I think I do now that I smelled it in several places and couldn't place it.  If it doesn't work any other way, then the method of elimination is what I'm left with. The thing is it gets translated into Croatian as cumin which isn't it (and some googling ensured me it doesn't smell the same either).
Now that I got that cleared in my mind, Amyitis starts for me as smelling like leathery roots. Well, more like suede roots. You know, that iris-earthy combo that spells smelling of roots. And violet sometimes evokes suede for me (probably in combination with something else but I haven't taken it so far yet).

I read the Luckyscent description and got discouraged again. Cucumber and mint? Can't say I got that impression. Although I can smell some sweetness I associate with mint notes but very faintly. 

Honestly, I have no idea why I like this one so much. If I were to guess by the notes, I'd be very iffy regarding the possibility of me liking this. It's a bit strange, hard to pin down and describe, but so very intriguing. It has that green, rooty thing going on that I pretty much always like but it's not obvious and it's just one of the things going on, most easy for me to get so that's why I'm highlighting it.

So, now I have both good and bad news. Good news is that Mona di Orio perfumes are available in Zagreb. The bad news is, they are not very economically approachable - especially if you realize you like more than one. ;)

Notes and pics by: http://www.luckyscent.com/

A quick word

Prompted by new Luckyscent sample pack and Mona di Orio scents.

One of the most important things I learned about the world of perfume is that you cannot just jump in. You cannot go around gathering ideas from what bloggers are writing about, what smells good or is new and interesting at the moment, what the classics are, etc.

If you have no knowledge outside your perfume store and absolutely general and often bad releases we see (smell) each day, you cannot just start smelling stuff at random by reading about what people find great.
I mean, you could (as I did) but most of the time, I failed to come to the same conclusion.

Learning about perfumes (and their constituent parts, i.e. notes) is a long and pretty much never-ending process. And I know this for some time now, but it became very clear tonight after trying some Mona di Orio perfumes. I tried some of them a year and half ago and kept wondering what was in there that everyone liked so much?!
Well, now I understand, and I already have my favourite - Jabu.

But the point I'm trying to make is, you need to take baby steps. Learn a general road of notes, start with some easily likeable but different houses (my favourite for that is L'Artisan Parfumeur) and take it slowly then. Trust me when I say, it takes a while for Mona di Orio (and in my case chypres) to register on the right scale.

And the most important thing - the more you smell perfumes, the more you understand them. There is no other way.

Not a quick word after all. :)