Linari, take two - Notte Bianca and Angelo di Fiume

It seems I'm good at picking my favourites out of a line without having any prior knowledge of what they smell like or who made them.

Today I tested the other two eau de parfums from the Linari line (I don't have the last two though) and these were not made by Egon Oelkers and don't speak to me as Eleganza Iluminosa and Vista sul Mare did.
I didn't know all  this when I tested them as I don't like my opinion influenced more than I can help it.

One thing I do need to say though - these are some seriously strong perfumes as I only put 2-3 drops of each of them when testing (the previous two as well) and they both last and are easily smelled even hours later (and even through my still congested nose).
So here are my thoughts.


Notte Bianca

Notes: delicate fruity accents of pink grapefruit, fresh bergamot and Italian orange combine with the vitalising spicy notes of star anise, elixir of absinth, clove, sage and the finest cashmere wood. Accords of Haitian vetiver and tonka bean provide a seductive sensual character to the base note, highlighted by white musk and amber.


The way this one is named, I was sure it would be a white flower fest. Not at all (as you can see from the notes). It does start like creamy whiteness but not that of the white flowers, instead it is that of the nuts (almonds, hazelnuts and coconuts). Not too sweet as there is some green stuff underneath. God, I sometime wonder why anyone would read my reviews when phrases like "green stuff" appear. :) Oh well.

The first two hours or so were great. Terrific actually as it progressed from that creamy nutty whiteness into a sweet, fresh and sagely green loveliness.
Only to surprise me with the next step that transported me straight to a June walk on the Adriatic coast amid the still green and fragrant shrubbery, a walk to the next town from the one where I'm staying. And I so wanted a perfume that smelled exactly like that! It's undescribeable for me and the middle stage of this perfume smells perfectly of that.
Unfortunately, the drydown leaves me completely unmoved. :( It's a perfectly unisex (grey) ambery -musky drydown. And it had so much potential.


Angelo di Fiume
 

Notes: gourmet of opulent, fruity notes of wild cherries, raspberries, Italian orange and bergamot merge with floral accords of ylang ylang, rose leaves and jasmine, rounded off with sweet caramel. The complex base note seduces with Madagascan vanilla whilst smooth accents of finest sandalwood and Siamese benjoin resin are subtly flattered by white musk and patchouli.


I can't say this is exactly me but if I had a bottle, I imagine I would wear it often enough. It's a perfect epitome of a sweet gourmand which would be a pretty good initiation into gourmands for those braving the perfume waters.

I love the opening that starts with a whack on the head sweetness of fruity candy. And that candy smells of oranges and raspberries to me. It makes me smile the way that lollipop idea springs into my mind with this fruit candy.

And if you thought the candy opening was sweet, just wait a minute until caramel hits you. :) I can't say I smelled the flowers but that could be because of my still congested nose, but I have to say I'm doubting it a bit what with the caramel being so strong. It feels stupid saying it's not too sweet as caramel cannot smell but sweet. But you should take into consideration that I don't have a sweet tooth so if I don't consider it too sweet, I'm thinking most people could live with it. Besides, I love the smell of caramel.
I do find the drydown of this better than that of Notte Bianca but it's a toned down fruity candy with some caramel remnants. I'm pretty sure the sandalwood and patchouli are the ones responsible for toning it down.


P.S. There is one more perfume in this line made by Egon Oelkers and I definitely plan on getting my hands on a sample of Fuoco Infernale.


Pics and notes by: Linari site

Unexpected surprises - Linari

It's been said over and over again how the perfume community is both friendly and generous. It's true but I still get surprised each time the generosity ends up in my lap. Not that I mind, especially when it comes from Paris and one of the most intriguing and knowledgeable bloggers out there - Denyse a.k.a. carmencanada of Grain de Musc.
I took advantage of her perfume spring cleaning (I love those!) and she, knowing it was my birthday at the time, sent over some amazing things. Some of which I want to talk about today.

Honestly, sometimes I feel ashamed for not knowing about some of the perfume houses out there. And after smelling these two, I really ought to have at least had an idea of them.


Vista sul Mare

Notes: "fresh citrus notes of Calabrian bergamot, pink grapefruit, lemon and Italian tangerine with a cool ozonic accord, ingeniously surrounded by a spicy-floral bouquet of red pepper, cloves, lily of the valley and wild roses. White musk and seductive amber merge with natural cedar and hints of patchouli to create a sensual, elegant base note".

I let you go through the notes because I like the way they sound. I didn't get to distinguish them all but I enjoyed the perfume immensely. It certainly did evoke the feeling of a thrilling summer  seaside affair (this time we're talking about the Mediterranean) with a sexy stranger. Who smells of green citruses, sea breeze (ozone air) and when you get closer after the dinner you had, you can smell his salty skin lightly wafting a citrusy floralness over the cedar base.
I do wish I could describe this better. It's so much more than I said but the atmosphere is the one I described. It might not be novel or strange but it's wonderful, absolute enjoyment to smell from the beginning to the end without ever becoming boring. And that is saying quite a lot.



Eleganza Luminosa

Notes: "enticing freshness of sun-ripened bergamot, luscious lemon and lively orange contrasts appealingly
with the lavish floweriness of finest rose oil, tantalizing jasmine, yellow freesia, powdery iris and lily of the valley. Warm woody notes of cedar and sandal merge with the sensual accord of white musk, whilst Javan patchouli and amber radiate to emphasise the long-lasting, timeless elegance".


This one on the other hand doesn't evoke summer breezes and sexy strangers, unless the sexy stranger is you. If you know how Ambre Gris by Balmain smells like, well, this one is similar but better. And Ambre Gris is good.
For me it starts florally-fruity (in an elegant way not celebrity way) with a touch of muskiness. Soon I can detect the grey amber note as it's so similar to Ambre Gris. I probably should have stated up there with you being the sexy stranger that you are probably a woman as this is more feminine than Ambre Gris.
I just realized that I'm not really distinguishing the notes so well as they are so well blended as to create a story and not a sequence.
Both of them are perfumes for me in the real sense as each time I smell my arm, it is slightly different. I thought the drydown of Eleganza was a lovely ambery dust over the wood notes, only to smell it a bit later and realize amber is gone and floral woodiness is now in charge.

As the Linari site listed their perfumer, I wanted to put his name in the post as well, I do hope I remember his name from the first try as I am looking forward to trying his other creation - Egon Oelkers.



Notes and pics by: Linari site
All Linari perfumes cost 140 Euros but a sample pack is available for 9 E.